by PhotoMann
The last 50 years have seen this 750 year old city
as the capital of the Third Reich, destroyed in World War II (WWII),
devided east/west by the cold war and eventually reunified as the capital
of the new Germany. As an isolated island within Eastern Germany, West
Berlin developed into a city that offers just about everything imaginable
while East Berlin was left in the dust (literally). The wall that devided
the city effectively created a time warp. Crossing the line where the
wall used to be is like going back in time... 40+ years. It's as if
time stopped at the end of WWII. It's not difficult to find buildings
which still have damage damage from the war that was never repaired.
The grand buildings in the center of East Berlin were well restored
after the war as this was the show-piece of Eastern Europe, but the
rest of the east was in disrepair. Even though Berlin is now politically
a single city within a united Germany you'll find in this article that
I still make a distinction between East and West (as many Germans do...
and sometimes wish it still was devided).
Prior to moving to Okinawa I was fortunate to live
in West Berlin for 18 months. I occasionally ventured into the east
but spent a majority of my time in the west which offered everything
I wanted. West Berlin was very similar to Hong Kong in the sense that
they were both isolated islands. Both cities offer something for everyone.
In only minutes you can travel from the densely congested downtown areas
to peaceful retreats. More than forty percent of West Berlin was wooded
or water.
Berlin today is one of the most exciting and beautiful
cities in the world. It has both cultural splendor and artistic creativity
as well as offering a great night life. The pulse of the city can be
measured on the Kurfurstendamm (Ku'damm) which is a grand boulevard
flanked by ritzy shops, sidewalk cafes, movie theaters, exclusive hotels,
and hot night clubs. There's something for everyone. At one end of the
Ku'damm you'll find the bombed out Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church which
was badly damaged during bombing in 1943. The church was left in it's
current state as a reminder of wartime damage. The bombed out church
flanked by an odd shaped new chapel lies across the plaza from the ultra-modern
Europa Center. The area is a hub of activity for everyone from dancing
and singing Harry Krishna's to punkers and anti-war protesters. There's
always something to just sit back and watch and of course take pictures
with amusement. The top of the Europa Center warrants two visits (day
& night) to shoot spectacular views of the city. The cage-like enclosure
that is meant to prevent jumpers keeps you back from the edge which
hinders some picture taking. My technique (try at your own risk) was
to climb up the bars high enough to get a clear view over the edge.
Be prepared to shoot with one hand and hold on with the other! I have
a couple of great night shots of the city lights using this method.
The wall that once devided the city is almost completely
gone. I arrived in Berlin just after the wall 'came down' so I had the
opportunity to chip some of my own souvenirs and shoot some pictures.
There are a few remnants including the East Side Gallery located across
from the East Berlin rail station. This section of wall is covered with
a number of very colorful paintings. Another section is across the river
from the Reichstag. It's covered with black & white murals depicting
suffering in the east. If you shoot from the right angle you'll have
an interesting contrast between the wall and the huge Toyota dealership
now located just behind it. The only other signs of the wall are the
vast strips of vacant land that was once the no-mans land between the
east and west.
Many of the historic landmarks of Berlin are concentrated
around Potsdammer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. The largest of which
is the Reichstag. This immense building which was the house of the German
parliament before the war (and will again be) is a sight to be seen.
As you approach you'll see the thousands upon thousands of pot marks
in the granite from bullets during the final hours of WWII. The Reichstag
was the last stand for the German Army. Unbeknownst to them, Hitler
had already committed suicide a few hours earlier in his bunker just
five hundred meters away. The Russian Army lost 2000 men taking this
one building having to fight room by room to the end. Today you'll find
the large grassy fields around the Reichstag filled with picnickers
and people playing soccer. Just outside the left entrance to the building
a number of plaques remembering the people that died trying to flee
East Berlin during the Cold War by swimming across the River Spree.
Just a hundred meters away, the historic Brandenburg
Gate which is modeled after the Propylaea, the entrance to the Acropolis
in Athens. The gate is topped with the Quadriga, a horse drawn chariot
which was once spirited away by Napoleon. During the Cold War the gate
was isolated between the East and West portions of the wall. The only
available views for almost 30 years were over the wall from observation
platforms. Now you can walk through the gate yourself and see that which
was denied to almost everyone for decades. The Quadriga was damaged
by jubilant revelers who climbed on it during the celebration of the
fall of the wall. It was repaired just in time for the 200th anniversary
of the gate. As they say timing is everything... I was fortunate to
be there for the 200th anniversary celebration. I have some spectacular
slides of the gate illuminated by flood lights and fireworks in the
sky [Note: the fireworks were a hell of a lot better than the pitiful
display we saw on 1 July during Americafest]. Day and night, the Brandenburg
Gate has lots of potential for shooting pictures. The area is always
teaming with people including numerous Turkish vendors selling numerous
items from Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union.
To the west of the Brandenburg Gate lies the Soviet
War Memorial. This structure which is flanked by two WWII era Soviet
tanks was build with marble from Hitler's destroyed headquarters, the
Reichs Chancellery. Oddly enough, this monument was in the western part
of Berlin. Venturing to the east of the Brandenburg Gate down Unter
den Linden, once the main east-west axis of Imperial Berlin, will lead
you to the center of East Berlin which has numerous sites to see and
photograph. They include the historic Pergamon museum, the Berliner
Dom (cathedral), television tower, Alexander Platz, city hall, and the
narrow streets of Nikolaiviertel. Spending a day wandering around this
area will yield a large number of fabulous slides. A short drive away
is the one of Berlin's most celebrated land marks. Checkpoint Charlie
was the Allied checkpoint for crossing into East Berlin. It is the site
of the historic photos of American and Eastern Block tanks facing off
during the dark days of the Cold War. Now all that remains is a sign
commemorating it's existence. Much of the area will become a modern
shopping center and hotel complex. Near by you'll find the Checkpoint
Charlie museum which contains the history of the wall as well as photos
of and contraptions used for escapes from East Berlin to the West. There's
also films documenting the seventy five people who were murdered by
the East German border guards while trying to escape.
Outside the city center there are several must see
sights. A visit to Schloss Charlottenburg is highly recommended. This
palace was originally build as a country house for the future Queen
Sophie Charlotte in 1695. Schloss Charlottenburg is a stark contrast
to it's surrounding modern city. The palace and it's accompanying spacious
grounds are wonderful to wander through and photograph. There are also
a couple of museums for those of you who enjoy that sort of thing. To
the right of the Palace is the Samovar restaurant which serves outstanding
Russian food. It is worth a visit in the evening... plan on being there
for a while as service can be slow but the food and beer (Czech Budvar)
are worth the wait.
A visit to Spandau, Berlin's oldest suburb just 10km
from the city is worth the trip. Spandau which dates back to the 1200's
escaped much of the bombing of WWII. It has some beautiful medieval
streets and an ancient fortress. The moated Spandau Zitadelle was built
in the 12th century to defend the town. Inside you can wander the grounds,
climb a couple of towers and shoot lots of pics. There is also a small
restaurant in a medieval dungeon. One of our office outings while in
Berlin was to a medieval feast here featuring roast duck. No knives
or forks (or chopsticks!) allowed. Just tear off a hunk of duck, drink
and be merry. The ample beer and huge ladles full with schnapps helped
set the mood for a fun filled evening! This short article only scratched
the surface of things to see and do in Berlin. If you're ever in Europe
you should make it a definite stop on your journey.
Suggested Berlin Travel Guides
(Order directly from Amazon Books - Click on the title)
Insight
Pocket Guides Berlin
The Insight Pocket Guide series of books is my favorite
for short stays at any destination. The book highlights the must see
destinations in full day and half day itineraries. This includes detailed
maps and suggested walking routes. This guide is a must have especially
for a short visit.
Lonely
Planet Berlin
As with most Lonely Planet guides, this Berlin dition is
an invaluable resource for planning your journey. It offers you the
most up-to-date information about where to go and where to aviod,
how to get there and get around, where to stay at a reasonable rate.
The guide provides everything you'll need to know for a rewarding
visit.
Eyewitness
Travel Guides: Berlin
Eyewitness guides provide great detail on sights and history. It's
a great reference especially with it's fantastic three dimensional
cutaway views of sites and monuments to point out all the details.
It makes finding things much easier than merely having a bunch of
words and a map.
Frommer's
Portable Berlin
A great compact guide that's easy to carry as you explore
the city.